NZ Metro Magazine
Melbourne is full of restaurants, café-filled laneways, lush parks, groovy galleries and suburbs of character. Greg Dixon offers 10 top tips for a bloke's visit to the city.
On your bike, son The first act of any city visit should be sussing the lie of the land. Melbourne is very easy to travel around - either by foot, tram, train or bus. But by far the easiest way to get a sense of the place is to pedal. Real Melbourne Bike Tours, run by freelance journalist Murray Johnson, offers city and beach tours for A$80, or you can just hire a bike for A$35 a day. His "city tour" is dead fun (if sweaty), taking you from the Yarra River up to Brunswick and Lygon (Little Italy) streets, around the cute back roads of Fitzroy and Carlton and down through the city. Coffee and cake at Cafe Brunetti (194-204 Faraday St, Carlton) and a well-timed visit to a juice bar are included in the price. The traffic can be slightly hairy - you have trams to watch out for as well as cars - but you'll see more in a few hours than you could walking for a week. Highly recommended. Real Melbourne Bike Tours can be found at Waterfront City in the Docklands Visit www.rentabike.net.au/biketours.
Brunswick St, Coolsville Well not so much Coolsville as Ponsonby Rd by way of K' Rd, only better. If Melbourne has a bohemian heart it is Brunswick St in Fitzroy, just north of the CBD via the 96 tram (catch it on Bourke St mall; it goes up Nicholson St; jump off and walk two blocks east to Brunswick St). Hip clothing stores and cafes dominate, though there's lots of places for browsing and buying. Polyester Books (330 Brunswick St, Fitzroy) sells a range of counter-culture titles under categories like "weirdness". Sister Ray Music Joint (260 Brunswick St, Fitzroy) flogs old vinyl, T-shirts and cool, while design store Kleen (296 Brunswick St, Fitzroy) is worth a visit for sexy coffee machines and watches. Walking the street will work up a thirst, so make sure you visit the street's best bar, Bimbo Deluxe (376 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; look for the large, weird, fake baby above the door), and have yourself a Blonde Bimbo ale.
15 Minutes on a Tram Aussie singer-songwriter Paul Kelly reckoned the ride from Sydney's Kings Cross to Melbourne's St Kilda was "13 hours on a bus". But from Melbourne's CBD it's just 15 minutes on the 96 tram (catch it from Bourke St mall). Seaside St Kilda was once the city's boho hub, but is now something like a more interesting Mission Bay, with eating joints predominating (with sheilas' clothing shops in between). St Kilda has a Luna Park (a retro amusement park) and, on Sundays, a market runs for half a kilometre along the beach-front road. A must do.
A Good Walk Spoiled Mornington Peninsula, a hour southeast of Melbourne, has many attractions including wine, wildlife and shopping. It also excels at golf clubs. There are 18 of them. Yes, 18. Simon Cummins' Golf Tourism Australia is a sort of travel agency for golfers which can line you up rounds anywhere in Australia. On the peninsula, his three-course tour (including motorised cart) starts at just $160. Visitwww.golftourismaustralia.comTop of your list should be Moonah Links, which has twice hosted the Aussie Open. This golf resort features two courses (the public "Open" and the private "the Legends"), very good apartment-style accommodation (prices start at A$230 mid-week) and a good restaurant. Peppers Moonah Links Resort, Peter Thomson Dr, Fingal, Victoria. Visitwww.peppers.com.au
Have a Beer with Chloe The parched have sought out the Young & Jackson Hotel, just opposite Flinders St Station, for something like 140 years. And for nearly a hundred of those years Chloe (above right) has watched the drinkers slake their thirst. Painted in Paris by Jules Lefebvre in 1875, the large nude caused an uproar when it was briefly hung in the National Gallery of Victoria. However after she was bought by the Young half of Young & Jackson, she found a more relaxed and appreciative audience. Since 1908 she has watched over drinkers and farewelled servicemen to two world wars and sundry other conflicts. Indeed, soldiers apparently wrote her letters during World War II. _Today she stands in her own salon. The hotel also has a cafe and an excellent, four-room brasserie. Do not leave without trying the hotel's own brew, a most excellent wheat beer called (naturally enough) Naked Ale. Young & Jackson, cnr Swanston and Flinders Sts, City, www.youngandjackson.com.au
When in Melbourne Eat Like a Roman Melbourne is said to be the second-largest Greek city in the world. But it also has a very strong Italian tradition, which eats its heart out in Little Italy (found in Lygon St, just north of the CBD). _If you can't be bothered (though you should be) making the short tram ride to Lygon, the central city also features fine Italian restaurants including the Southbank's Tutto Bene (Shop M28, Mid Level, Southgate,www.tuttobene.com.au), which specialises in risottos. I, however, punted for the sweet baby mussels and calamari in a tomato broth with chilli and Sardinian "crumbled" pasta. It is a memorable, delicious dish. _Further upmarket, and further into town, is Grossi Florentino (80 Bourke St, City, www.grossiflorentino.com.au) with a downstairs grill and an upstairs restaurant. The spring menu included an excellent plate of prosciutto, peppers and pecorino which I followed with tender veal scaloppini and a drunken, divine tiramisu. A class act.
A Good Sport Australians consider Melbourne the country's sports capital - and with at least five major sporting venues within spitting distance of the CBD, you can't argue. Anthony Grace's Melbourne Sports Tours offers a variety of packages to see what can be built when people really care about sport. MST's first-rate Sports Lovers morning tour (A$95) includes visiting Flemington race course, a drive through the 2006 Commonwealth Games village, a tootle around the Albert Park grand prix racetrack and an okay lunch overlooking the pitch at the Telstra Dome (where I was to later watch the Kiwis snatch defeat from the jaws of victory against the Kangaroos). _The tour's true highlight is the Melbourne Cricket Ground, home of the Melbourne Cricket Club but also the sentimental home of Aussie cricket. The 90-minute MCG tour takes you around the stadium, through the members' library, the Long Room and onto the pitch. For cricket lovers, this is as close to Valhalla as it comes. Melbourne Sports Tours, visit www.melbournesportstours.com.au
A Day at the Races You'll have to wait until spring for the city's three major meetings, the Caulfield Cup, Cox Plate (at Moonee Valley) and, of course, the Melbourne Cup at Flemington on the first Tuesday of November. October's Caulfield Cup is considered more a true punter's day than the Melbourne Cup, though it draws thousands of young blokes dressed like novice pimps and women in, well, not much at all. By cup time, they're bombed. You have been warned. However, you can expect quality fields and a less crowded event than the following month's Flemington extravaganza. And remember losing someone else's currency is just like losing play money. Caulfield Racecourse, Station St, Caulfield, or visit www.melbourneracingclub.net.au Flemington (Victoria Racing Club), 448 Epsom Rd, Flemington, www.vrc.net.au
Best Bar None Melbourne is replete with quality watering holes stretching from old pubs to ultra-chic joints hidden down grubby little lanes. The following are vague (for obvious reasons) recollections of some: Madame Brussels (3/59-63 Bourke St, City) was by far the weirdest I visited, featuring Astroturf on the floor and 1970s furniture, with staff attired in camp uniforms of short shorts, vests, walk socks and plimsolls. Tony Starr's Kitten Club (1/267 Lt Collins St, City) specialises in cocktails and cool, with décor that's a throwback to mid-20th Century design. I highly recommend The Phoenix (82 Flinders St, City), which manages to be hip (three levels, 1970s décor, good mix of music) without being up itself. Featuring what could be the longest bar in Melbourne, Cookie (252 Swanston St, City) has a good range of tap beers, wines and whiskies, while the Royal Melbourne Hotel (620 Bourke St, City), with its gothic architecture and five drinking areas, including an atrium and "the cells", is a mix of trad pub (with the awful local draught on tap) and upmarket wine bar.
Boy, Have They Got a Deal for You The sprawling Queen Victoria Market is a curious blend of high-quality food shops (fantastic breads, cakes, cheeses, meat, fish, fruit, veges) and stalls flogging very cheap (in both senses) clothing, luggage and souvenirs. The market is just north of the CBD and is accessed from the top end of Elizabeth St, either by foot or 19, 57 or 59 trams. Open Tuesdays and Thursday through Sunday.
By Geoff Cumming
Melbourne wants to attract Kiwi men with its pubs and sporting events, culture, wining and dining.
Melbourne has a problem: a desperate shortage of New Zealand men. Australia's second city has long been known for its food, arts and shopping - but these are seen, curiously enough, as attractive mainly to women.
Apparently, there are bonding issues between Melbourne and the Kiwi male. Or so the Victorian tourism people think.
Concerned that New Zealand men looking for a short break opt for Sydney or Brisbane, Tourism Victoria decided to woo a bunch of blokes with a sporting long-weekend of rugby (the league variety), racing and beer. And golf. And food and wine. And a bit of culture in the form of cabaret and lusty acrobatics in the Spiegeltent.
And being good keen blokes, we went along for the ride. It was hell.
"That's the problem," we told the man from Tourism Victoria at Young & Jackson's, as we sampled a Naked Blond (a fine wheat beer which we would keep revisiting).
"There isn't one thing about Melbourne - it's got everything."
We were there on false pretences, all of us. While we like our sport, there is more to life. Most of us were more adept around a pool table than on one of Australia's toughest golf courses, but we could talk a good game - any game.
So we extolled the virtues of Melbourne's fine sporting arenas - the TelstraDome with its encloseable roof, the multi-purpose Rod Laver Arena, the Vodafone Arena and the MCG - all clustered within walking distance of the CBD and serviced by excellent public transport.
We told him how much we'd enjoyed inspecting an empty MCG. The invitation was a gamebreaker: "You can smell the liniment in the changing rooms." But the stadium built for the 1956 Olympics and revamped for the 2006 Commonwealth Games has a sense of grandeur and its place in sporting history is told with lustre by enthusiastic guides.
We didn't talk about the league, which New Zealand had just contrived to lose after leading the Aussies with five minutes to go. Rather we talked about the ease of access from city watering holes across a footbridge past the architecturally impressive Southern Cross Station.
It's said that Melburnians will flock to a blindfolded book-reading contest if one entrant is in green and gold; but at the TelstraDome they were drowned out at times by Kiwi supporters, who no doubt will be back next year when the city hosts an All Blacks v Wallabies rugby test.
We didn't talk at all about the Caulfield Cup which launches Melbourne's spring racing carnival, at which we had helped to ease the national debt earlier in the day.
The meeting, which drew 48,000, was a cultural eye-popper: teenage fillies in frocks inspired by jockeys' colours but with less fabric; their teenage boyfriends as sharp as used-car salesmen in their suits - and all of them there for the main purpose of getting trolleyed.
Whatever the Melbourne Cup carnival is, it's not about the racing. And there are four race days, culminating with the race which stops two nations next Tuesday.
We didn't even talk about women, much. What we talked about mostly was the variety of things to do in Melbourne, from the shows to the hidden bars and clubs and, yes, the shopping.
Not the kind of shopping found in malls, nor the fallacy of labels that women seem so impressed by.
What makes Melbourne a male shopping mecca is its quirky strips and precincts; places where you can browse unmolested and experience the full gamut of human endeavour and folly, where you will see and smell things totally foreign to the mall.
South Yarra, southeast of the city centre, is one of several shopping precincts where Venus and Mars can part company then meet in the middle with retail therapy needs met. The metro male accompanying the female shopaholic might consider the following option: Push wifey from the Number 78 tram at the high fashion end of Chapel St and stay on until the Dotti and Kookai and Mollini signs give way to those for Salvo's Op Shop, second-hand books and electrical supplies.
The Prahran end of Chapel St is the men's end. Here, the shops are distinguished by their peeling paint, dim lighting and windows where the mannequins, not the clothes, are for sale.
A good launching pad is Chapel St Bazaar, with its dye-cast toys, kitsch chandeliers and mothballed jackets. For a trendier take on junk, Tarlo & Graham at 60 Chapel St has everything from antique bureaux and pedal cars to musical instruments and wrought iron gates.
The Printed Image at 226 Chapel St has an eclectic range of prints and postcards as well as books on graphic design, photography and food.
Just Collectables and Alternate Worlds both have a good range of comics, models and battle toys.
The Prahran Market, dating from 1864, is well worth a diversion before the shackles come back on. Italian matrons pushing wooden shopping trundlers buy their meat, seafood, fruit and vegetables here but the delicatessens are what attracts the visitor with their array of cheeses, salamis, breads, dips, olives, stuffed peppers and dolmades.
Out the back, Essential Ingredients has balsamic vinegars, infused olive oils, capers and pasta as well as kitchenware and cookbooks. Even women would feel at home here.
If the top end of Chapel St has become too High St-fashion, Fitzroy, northeast of the city centre, retains its grungy edge.
Brunswick St, reached by Number 96 tram, is a heady blend of pubs, cafes, restaurants and shops selling clothing, shoes, second-hand records and CDs. The T-shirts, at shops like Tomorrow Never Knows and Rebirth, have quirky designs by names you won't recognise at reasonable prices.
Slightly more upmarket are Liquid and Currency and there's a Huffer store. Nearby, Gown of Horns will kit you out in gothic clothing and worse.
Polyester stretches the taste boundaries in books, magazines and comics, while there are good stocks of quality old vinyl at Dixon's Recycled and Sister Ray.
But what makes Fitzroy essential for the sports lover is its weathered and unpretentious pubs.
They exude character from the barstaff and patrons to the battered old couches, their ambience reinforced with low lighting and tasty sounds. As is the Melbourne way, many conceal rooftop garden bars.
Labour in Vain, opposite the Perseverance, is a good example. Stare down the hard-case locals and head upstairs to the leafy outdoor area with a Fitzroy Amber in hand.
A few streets down, off Fitzroy St, The Standard has a large shaded garden bar and excellent food.
Back on Brunswick St, pubs such as the Old Bar and Palookaville are stalwart hosts of live blues, R&B and country bands by night.
But for a thirst-quencher at any time, drop into Bimbo Deluxe at 376 Brunswick St for a Blond Bimbo, a wheat beer to rival the Naked Ale. You'll know it by its sign - a giant plastic doll baring all from the top floor. By night, apparently, the place lives up to its name.
Back in town, there's a similar variety of unassuming bars which over-deliver, such as Madame Brussels in Bourke St and Phoenix in Flinders St.
"So, if you had to pick one highlight," said the man from Tourism Victoria, "which would it be?"
"The league," I deadpanned. "Maaate."
Barbara Ramsay Orr tours Melbourne as it blooms
Special to The Globe and Mail, Canada
March 11, 2006
Can marathoners stop and smell the roses? In Melbourne, the host city for the 2006 Commonwealth Games, they might be tempted.
Australia's "Garden City" will be at its best in the coming months. Both spectators and athletes will be surrounded by manicured green spaces, venerable gardens and tree-lined avenues. Melbourne will see its broad boulevards augmented by 12,000 blooming pots. Flowerbeds will be overflowing with 170,000 seedlings planted months ago.
The games' planners have designed the 12-day schedule around Melbourne's best gardens, six of which are clustered around the downtown core. Starting on Wednesday, for example, cyclists and runners will race along the borders of the Royal Botanic Gardens, known locally as the "Tan."
I picnicked there last February on wild smoked salmon, artisanal breads and aromatic local cheeses, all from the Richmond Hill Café and Larder, on one of the quiet lawns in the Tan. Smooth banks of grass led down to a pond, and a family watched their daughter trying in vain to catch the ducks that came up looking for food. Behind me, perennial flower beds lined the walkways, and downtown skyscrapers floated just above the trees. If not for these, it could have been a country picnic.
Other Commonwealth Games events will take place along the banks of the Yarra River, which winds through the centre of Melbourne, passing through the leafy coolness of the King's Domain park, the St. Kilda Foreshore Promenade and the Alexandra Gardens.
The Carlton Gardens and Royal Exhibition Halls - which hosted the 1880 World Exhibition - will be bursting with blooms. One of the best-preserved Victorian exhibition spaces in the world, these elegant buildings and surrounding gardens are a World Heritage Site. The marathon course winds right past its geometrically designed parterres, ornate fountains and quiet pathways.
Everywhere you look in Melbourne, something's blooming. The area beside Parliament House on Spring Street, for example, is filled with beds planted in the blue, green and orange colours of the Games, as if the city planners couldn't overlook a chance to embellish. The gardens, the relative flatness of the streets and the compact city centre have made this one of the world's best cities to tour on foot.
Or better yet, on bicycle. Try seeing the city from the viewpoint of a Commonwealth Games bike racer, but at a leisurely pace. Real Melbourne Bike Tours, located at Docklands, rents bikes and conducts guided tours.
Owner Murray Johnson will show you his own private Melbourne in a four-hour tour that winds through many of the city's garden spaces, and may include a stop for coffee at the famous Brunetti's and a quick lunch at the lively Victoria Market.
The tour wheels through the trendy student district, where coffee houses abound and avant-garde shops showcase new fashion designers. It then heads to the arcades and lanes where Greek, Chinese, Indian, Italian and Middle Eastern restaurants crowd the alleyways, and Aussies perch on benches and chairs outside tiny restaurants in the laneways to nosh on steamed dumplings washed down with a cold Toohey's Extra Dry or a Cooper's Sparking Ale.
The tour cruises past the yellow Flinders Street Station to end at Federation Square, the glass-and-steel architectural wonder that acts as the public heart of Melbourne, where open piazzas and windowed galleries overlook the river and the parks that line it. This will be the site location of free live broadcasts of the opening and closing ceremonies and competition events, concerts and art displays when the Games commence.
Perhaps the most significant green spot in the city - maybe the most famous plot of grass in the Southern Hemisphere - is the MCG (Melbourne Cricket Grounds). Technically, of course, the "G" is not a garden in the traditional sense, but visitors have been known to creep down to the fence to clip bits of grass as a memento of their visit to this hallowed ground among cricketers and fans.
The MCG has witnessed some of the great clashes of the sports world, as well as hosting the opening and closing ceremonies for the 1956 Olympics. Australian Football has its home here, but it has also been the site of concerts by U2, the Three Tenors and the Rolling Stones. After undergoing $430-million in renovations, the MCG will host the opening and closing ceremonies, and many of the competitions, for the Commonwealth Games.
But don't let the Games' billion-dollar glitz overshadow pastoral diversions such as Fitzroy Gardens - 26 hectares of stately greenery in the heart of the city on the opposite side of the Yarra River from the Tan - or Melbourne's oldest green space, Flagstaff Gardens. With plenty of help from horticulture, Melbourne is ready for its close-up.
Shayne Currie in the New Zealand Herald
At Federation Square is one-man-business Murray Johnson, former journalist and all-round top bloke. He once worked for Rupert Murdoch in the skyscraper which hovers over his business, Real Melbourne Bicycle Tours.
I don't think he liked Rupert or the News Ltd ethos, because he got out, and he got smart. His business is a prime example of the entrepreneurial spirit which sweeps this city.
His bike tour is a gem, an intimate ride through the heart of Melbourne, dodging shoppers, avoiding tram tracks, munching on the most delightful pastries and sipping the most thirst-quenching fruit juices.
Murray treats us to the best chocolates, shows us the hidden nightclubs.
All the while, we were being regaled with one of the best city commentaries you'll hear. In one breath, he'll explain Melbourne's history, and then, in the next, where you'll find the best pastries (Brunetti's). He can speak for five minutes on the history of a neon sign, and tell you all about that famous New Zealand horse in the Melbourne Museum, Phar Lap. (You get the sense that part of the commentary is adapted for the audience. Savvy bloke that Murray.)
You don't have to be super-fit to do this - or even fit at all. It is the perfect way to start any trip to Melbourne, the chance to get inside the nooks and crannies of a city that has so much to offer visitors.
The guided city tour costs 80 bucks, and lasts four hours.
While you can hire a bike and go your own way, you won't find a better tour guide than Murray Johnson.
Geoff 'Coxy' Cox, Coxy's Big Break, Channel 7
Have you seen those thin lanes on the side of the roads? Coxy learned they're not for thin cars, they're for bicycles, and there are more of them around Melbourne than ever before.
Real Melbourne Bike Tours offer a wonderful opportunity for the family to explore our great city by the bay, without breaking the bank. You'll see more in a few hours than most see in days, as you explore cosmopolitan Melbourne on two wheels. Forget the parking hassles - experience all the hot spots of Melbourne in a fun and unique way with tour guide, and bike nut, Murray Johnson.
Garden City
One of the most popular stops is at the Royal Botanic Gardens, which offers free entry to the main gardens. Opening hours are weekdays 9 to 5 and weekends 9.30 to 5.
There are plenty of photos to be had, as Murray is a professional photographer. You'll see this great city from a "shutterbug's" perspective, and take home some great city snaps.
It's easy to forget how good Melbourne is. Murray won't bore you with a history lecture. He stays away from places with brass plaques on them and prefers "living" attractions. In a few hours you'll know Melbourne like the back of your hand. From rides along the beach - where the sand looks fresh and golden, to some of the most interesting streets and offbeat bars and shops.
To Market, To Market
A great stop on the Real Melbourne Bike Tour is the Queen Victoria Market, where you can buy food from around the world at bargain prices, like Turkish borek bread for just $2.50.
Another morsel Coxy sampled was from his new friend Coonlay at Tribal Taste. The food is based on Nigerian recipes, and includes Kangaroo sausage. This made Coxy do a double take. Kangaroo from West Africa? Well, we're all from Africa originally.
The QVMarket trading hours are
* Tuesday: 6am - 2pm
* Thursday: 6am - 2pm
* Friday: 6am - 6pm (General merchandise closes at 4pm)
* Saturday: 6am - 3pm
* Sunday: 9am - 4pm
At $80 for adults the four-hour bike tour includes lightweight bike hire, snacks and drinks on the way and a gourmet Aussie picnic lunch at Queen Victoria Market. Tours are run at 9am on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays all year round.
RoseAnna Schick in the Winnipeg Free Press
MELBOURNE -- If you hide it they will come. While this is a saying popular among locals here, it can also be heeded as a pearl of wisdom for tourists visiting Melbourne.
Known for exquisite shopping and eclectic dining, the real treasures to be found in this cultural mecca are located off the beaten path. And the best way to find them is by bicycle.
With Real Melbourne Bike Tours, you'll discover more in a few hours than most see in days, as host Murray Johnson takes you on a bike trip that explores the real treasures of Melbourne -- distinct cultural districts, bohemian back streets, cosy cafés, hidden arcades, back-lane bars, lively markets and quirky gift shops tucked between cobblestone streets.
"Melbourne is one of the most unique cities in the world, and our goal is to show it to visitors from the inside out," says Johnson, a freelance journalist and photographer who has travelled all over the world, and believes the best tours are those that provide a true sense of what makes a city special.
Gia Rosenblum from New Jersey, USA
My husband Frank, daughter Genevieve and I took your Melbourne city tour in January, and I just wanted to tell you how much we enjoyed it. I have been raving about the wonderful time we had ever since. You really provided the perfect mix of great locales to visit, interesting history, quirky anecdotes, and personal background, not to mention great snacks to try. I will try to send you some of the photos I took once we have them in a web friendly format. Truly your tour was one of the highlights of our overall wonderful stay in Melbourne.
Resie Tromba, Holland
My name is Resie Tromba and I'm the daughter of Harry and Maria Weijman from Holland who came on the bike tour with you last Friday morning. We would like to thank you for the great experience they had on your guided tour through the great city of Melbourne on bicycles!! They went to places that they would never have found on their own and tasted the most beautiful food and drinks thanks to you!! They really enjoyed themselves and will pass this on to their friends that are planning to visit Melbourne!!
Once again, thank you very much for your tour and also for taking the time to make sure they understood what you told them (not everybody does this with people from overseas who have English as their second language!). Very much appreciated!!
Laura Csortin, Presenter, The Great Outdoors, Channel 7
Forget the parking hassles - experience all the hot spots of Melbourne in a fun and unique way. Real Melbourne Bike Tours offer cycle tours around this beautiful city, from the bohemian café strip of Fitzroy Street to the grand prix track of Albert Park.
The Real Melbourne Bike Tour is a perfect way to check out all the great places in Melbourne. What's best is that Melbourne is flat, the bikes are lightweight and comfortable and your guide, Murray, is a fountain of knowledge.
Since the tour only takes half a day, you'll have plenty of time to revisit the places you've loved most. So get riding!
Kim Culley, USA
Thanks again for a wonderful Real Melbourne Bike Tour - we really enjoyed it! You really added such a great personal touch and showed the many different sites of the city. It's nice to see someone so passionate about the history/tourism of their own city, but then be just as passionate about the smaller barrios and intercultural districts - it was a side of the city we would have never even known existed.
If you would like to tell others about your experience on a Real Melbourne Bike Tour please email Murray Johnson atbiketours@internex.net.au
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PHONE
Tel. 61 417 339 203 (Overseas)
Tel 0417 339 203 (in Australia)
EMAIL: biketours@rentabike.net.au
